{"id":1863,"date":"2019-09-21T01:55:06","date_gmt":"2019-09-21T00:55:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/?p=1863"},"modified":"2019-09-18T10:43:41","modified_gmt":"2019-09-18T09:43:41","slug":"vat-of-kirbuster-bay-of-houseby-stronsay-orkney","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/?p=1863","title":{"rendered":"Vat of Kirbuster &#038; Bay of Houseby, Stronsay, Orkney"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><script type=\"text\/javascript\">function popwalk(walk) {var url = \"\/Walks\/amap.php?f=\"+walk; varwalkwindow=window.open(url,\"walkwin\",\"height=740,width=1230,resizable=yes,scrollbars=yes\"); if (window.focus) {walkwindow.focus()}}<\/script><br \/>\nFirst published in: The Times <a href=\"javascript:popwalk('Stronsay.gpx');\" rel=\"nozoom\" title=\"Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window\">Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window<\/a><br \/>\n<a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349658421_b26ec68662_z.jpg\" title= \"48349658421 Stronsay farm, lying low\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349658421_b26ec68662_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349663236_b81b15561f_z.jpg\" title= \"48349663236 Bay of Houseby\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349663236_b81b15561f_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349660186_47a7a892c3_z.jpg\" title= \"48349660186 looking towards the loch of Meikle Water\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349660186_47a7a892c3_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349792452_c6813dcaa2_z.jpg\" title= \"48349792452 rock arch entrance to the Vat of Kirbuster 1\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349792452_c6813dcaa2_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349657041_6ff0f0dc0e_z.jpg\" title= \"48349657041 rock arch entrance to the Vat of Kirbuster 2\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349657041_6ff0f0dc0e_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349655661_bdc5167d08_z.jpg\" title= \"48349655661 east coast cliffs and sea near Vat of Kirbuster\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349655661_bdc5167d08_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349788912_35b15acb9b_z.jpg\" title= \"48349788912 early Christian hermits eked out existence on these rock stacks\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349788912_35b15acb9b_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349788412_574233cf4a_z.jpg\" title= \"48349788412 rugged rocks of the cliffs near Burgh Head\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349788412_574233cf4a_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349787337_d07ed7bd23_z.jpg\" title= \"48349787337 rock stack near Burgh Head\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349787337_d07ed7bd23_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349787107_eef6b33926_z.jpg\" title= \"48349787107 looking north along the coast near Vat of Kirbuster 1\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349787107_eef6b33926_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349785977_6e21166bbc_z.jpg\" title= \"48349785977 striated rocks of the east coast\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349785977_6e21166bbc_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349785052_02f502c95d_z.jpg\" title= \"48349785052 crazy strata of the east coast cliffs\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349785052_02f502c95d_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349664866_ef0c2a31a3_z.jpg\" title= \"48349664866 view south towards Lamb Head\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349664866_ef0c2a31a3_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349802947_1b6b85461e_z.jpg\" title= \"48349802947 looking south toward Lamb Head\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349802947_1b6b85461e_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349803532_347e04afa9_z.jpg\" title= \"48349803532 looking north along the coast near Burgh Head\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349803532_347e04afa9_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349666086_9fa2a2f8ea_z.jpg\" title= \"48349666086 a deep geo or inlet near Burgh Head\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/farm66.static.flickr.com\/65535\/48349666086_9fa2a2f8ea_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nFacebook Link: <script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/wordpress\/?p=1863\" layout=\"button_count\" show_faces=\"true\" width=\"200\" colorscheme=\"dark\"><\/fb:like><br \/>\n<a href=\"javascript:pwindow=window.open('\/Walks\/prn.php?f=1863','pwin','height=700,width=1000,resizable=yes,scrollbars=yes');\" title=\"Click for printable version\"><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"\/Walks\/print.gif\" align=\"right\"><\/a><br \/>\nThe Isle of Stronsay sails on the eastern edge of the archipelago of Orkney, a long island flattened on a sea that glinted like black obsidian this sunny morning. Sandstone farmsteads lay low, straddling the island&#8217;s low green ridges.<\/p>\n<p>Two great skuas were bullying a gannet, trying to make it disgorge the fish it had just caught, as we steamed into Stronsay. Formalities at Whitehall harbour are at a minimum &#8211; you just walk off the ferry, collect your hire cycle and head off along the straight and narrow island roads. Brown and black cattle glanced at us through their long eyelashes as they munched a salad of grass, buttercups and clover.<\/p>\n<p>Down on the rugged east coast the cliffs stepped seaward, footed on dark plates of sandstone. Fulmars eyed us from their nests in cracks and crevices of the rocks above slit-like inlets where a copper-coloured sea rose, hissed and fell away. There was a salt edge to the wind, and a great sense of being far from anywhere on a wide sea.<\/p>\n<p>The path rounded the Vat of Kirbuster, a deep dark chasm of a blowhole, the entrance spanned by a sway-backed rock arch, its layered walls spattered with white blooms of sea campion. Beyond rose the green-capped rock stacks of Two Castles, where early Christian hermits somehow contrived to eke out existence in absolute solitude.<\/p>\n<p>We crossed a stream trickling down through a rushy grassland bright with yellow cross-shaped flowers of tormentil, tiny white eyebright and the stout purple-pink heads of northern marsh orchids. At Carlin Geo a disgorged pellet of feathers, bones and two webbed feet lay on the grass, while a great black-backed gull on the rocks below snapped its beak in satisfied remembrance of this grisly feast.<\/p>\n<p>The green promontory of Lamb Head curved seawards, its neck guarded by the stone-built round base of a Pictish broch, a defensive tower perhaps two thousand years old. In the centre a stone slab had been slid aside from a square-mouthed entrance, revealing a pitch-black chamber below.<\/p>\n<p>Beyond in the Bay of Houseby, the beach of orange kelp and flat rocks seemed to writhe and undulate. It was a mighty haul-out of grey seals, shifting their blubberous bodies towards the water and watching us with solemn round eyes. As we followed the flicker of a wheatear&#8217;s white rump inland, a mournful hooting like a convocation of tuneful foghorns broke out behind us &#8211; the tideline singing of Stronsay&#8217;s seals.<\/p>\n<p>Start: Vat of Kirbuster parking place, Isle of Stronsay, Orkney, KW17 2AG (OS ref HY 681241)<\/p>\n<p>Getting there: Car or passenger ferry from Kirkwall to Whitehall harbour, Stronsay (orkneyferries.co.uk). Bike (free) from Ebenezer Stores, Whitehall (01857-616339); head south on B9060 to Kirbuster parking (signed).<br \/>\nTaxi &#8211; 01857-616335.<\/p>\n<p>Walk (7\u00bd miles, easy\/moderate, OS Explorer 465): From info board head east on track to coast. Right\/south along cliffs for 4 miles to Bay of Houseby. At The Pow (677221), right\/inland up concrete farm track. Follow road for nearly 1\u00bd miles past Mid House (670228), South Schoolhouse (668232), Eastbank (672237) and Roadside (675241) to T-junction at Everbay (673246). Right (&#8216;Vat of Kirbuster&#8217;); in 600m, right (679250) to start.<\/p>\n<p>Conditions: Unguarded cliff-top paths, beach, quiet lanes<\/p>\n<p>Lunch\/Accommodation: Stronsay Hotel, Whitehall (01857-616213, <a href=\"http:\/\/stronsayhotelorkney.com\">stronsayhotelorkney.com<\/a>); Storehouse B&#038;B (01857-616263), Stronsay Fishmart (01856-616401)<\/p>\n<p>Tea\/cakes\/info:  Craftship Enterprise Caf\u00e9 &#038; Craft shop, Mallet on B9060 between Whitehall and Kirbuster (01857-616249, <a href=\"http:\/\/craftshipenterprise.co.uk\">craftshipenterprise.co.uk<\/a>)<\/p>\n<p>Info: <a href=\"http:\/\/visitorkney.com\">visitorkney.com<\/a>; <a href=\"http:\/\/satmap.com\">satmap.com<\/a>; <a href=\"http:\/\/ramblers.org.uk\">ramblers.org.uk<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>The Isle of Stronsay sails on the eastern edge of the archipelago of Orkney, a long island flattened on a sea that glinted like black obsidian this sunny morning.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1865,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1863","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-walks","category-3-id","post-seq-1","post-parity-odd","meta-position-corners","fix"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1863","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=1863"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1863\/revisions"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/1865"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=1863"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=1863"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=1863"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}