{"id":492,"date":"2012-04-07T02:24:25","date_gmt":"2012-04-07T02:24:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/?p=492"},"modified":"2012-04-04T14:27:24","modified_gmt":"2012-04-04T14:27:24","slug":"craswall-and-monnow-valley-herefordshire","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/?p=492","title":{"rendered":"Craswall and Monnow Valley, Herefordshire"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Two tiny terriers came barking to the fence of the Bull\u2019s Head Inn at Craswall as we pulled on our boots in the lane.<br \/>\n<script type=\"text\/javascript\">window.onload = setupZoom; function popwalk(walk) {var url = \"\/Walks\/amap.php?f=\"+walk; var walkwindow=window.open(url,\"walkwin\",\"height=550,width=1120,resizable=yes,scrollbars=yes\"); if (window.focus) {walkwindow.focus()}}<\/script>First published in: The Times <a href=\"javascript:popwalk('Craswall.gpx');\" rel=\"nozoom\" title=\"Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window\">Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window<\/a><\/script><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7050\/6832705562_b24689d705.jpg\" title='Craswall Abbey church'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7050\/6832705562_b24689d705_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7060\/6832707234_512e999370.jpg\" title='green lane to Craswall'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7060\/6832707234_512e999370_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7046\/6832708460_62912dfff1.jpg\" title='Hay Bluff ridge'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7046\/6832708460_62912dfff1_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7199\/6832711328_cdcd2f11aa.jpg\" title='Hmmm... any ideas??'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7199\/6832711328_cdcd2f11aa_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7179\/6976970007_db07a06e67.jpg\" title='Craswall Abbey - pillar bases'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7179\/6976970007_db07a06e67_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7068\/6976965811_de49b65ffa.jpg\" title='infant River Monnow near Abbey Farm'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7068\/6976965811_de49b65ffa_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7187\/6976956625_9db02f6895.jpg\" title='St Mary&#039;s Church, Craswall'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7187\/6976956625_9db02f6895_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7186\/6976515837_bc4b445416.jpg\" title='Bull&#039;s Head, Craswall - open at weekends and &#039;by appointment&#039;'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7186\/6976515837_bc4b445416_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nFacebook Link: <script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/wordpress\/?p=492\" layout=\"button_count\" show_faces=\"true\" width=\"200\" colorscheme=\"dark\"><\/fb:like><br \/>\nThe Bull\u2019s Head is a little gem, a lost-and-gone pub full of character in a remote cleft of the hilly border country where Powys frowns down on Herefordshire.<\/p>\n<p>A pale sun was trying its best to draw aside the blankets of mist that the Black Mountains had pulled across their shoulders overnight. Celandines and daffodils were struggling out in the roadside verges, chaffinches burbled, catkins hung long and yellow from the hazels \u2013 everything spoke of spring just around the corner.<\/p>\n<p>Craswall\u2019s modest Church of St Mary crouched in its ring of trees. Inside, everything was plain and simple \u2013 a tiny gallery, beams shaped and bevelled by some nameless medieval village carpenter, hard upright pews. The sunken grassy hollow on the north side was an arena for cockfights not so long ago, and Craswall boys would play fives against the church wall.<\/p>\n<p>We followed a bridleway through sheep pastures, heading north to cross the infant River Monnow in a dell under alders and low-growing oaks. The dogs of Abbey Farm barked us in and out of the farmyard. Down in the cleft beyond, sunk deep into grassy turf banks, lay the silent and time-shattered ruins of Craswall Priory. The Order of Grandmont monks ran it in medieval times with a severe rule and harsh discipline. They could not have chosen a bleaker or more remote spot to build their refuge, or a more beautiful one to a modern walker\u2019s eyes. The curved apse still holds its rough altar, sandstone sedilia and triple piscina complete with stone bowls and drain holes. Over all is a profound sense of peace, and an echo of melancholy.<\/p>\n<p>Up on the ridge we strode out. Suddenly the mist curtain shredded away and a stunning view lay ahead \u2013 the great steep prow of Hay Bluff and the upturned boat keel of its long south-going ridge, towering 700 feet above us but completely hidden until now. We stood and stared, entranced, before turning back to follow old green lanes that led down to Craswall over a succession of rushing mountain fords.<\/p>\n<p>START: Bull\u2019s Head PH, Craswall, near Hay-on-Wye, Herefordshire HR2 0PN (OS ref SO 278360).<\/p>\n<p>GETTING THERE: A438, B4351 to Hay-on-Wye. Follow B4350 west out of town; on outskirts, left up Forest Road (\u2018Capel-y-ffin\u2019). In 2\u00bd miles fork left (\u2018Craswall 4\u2019). Park at Bull\u2019s Head, Craswall.<\/p>\n<p>WALK (6 miles, moderate, OS Explorer OL13):<br \/>\nWith phone box behind you, descend road with Bull\u2019s Head on your right. Just beyond Craswall Church (281363), right off road; immediately left (blue arrow\/BA; \u2018Monnow Valley Walk\u2019\/MVW). Follow BAs along hillside for nearly 1 mile; ford River Monnow (276375); aim across field to far top corner (275378); on through gates to Abbey Farm (274379). Left down drive to Craswall Abbey ruins (273377); on up drive to road (268373). Left; in 300 m, right (271370; \u2018bridleway\u2019 fingerpost\/BFP). Follow BA and MVW through fields for nearly 1 mile. Through gates, over stile at caravans (257374; BA); on through gate on skyline (255373). On for \u00bc mile through 2 gates; at 2nd one (251373, at Brecon Beacons National Park boundary) turn left up end of larch plantation. At top of wood, left along its south side. Pass Coed Major on left (256371), down to cross stream (257369), and follow green lane\/path through gates. In \u2154 mile it becomes metalled lane. At gate (268363), right (BFP) for 50 m; left (BFP) on bridleway through gates. In \u00be mile, at post with 2 BAs (278357), left to road; left to Bull\u2019s Head.<\/p>\n<p>REFRESHMENTS: Picnic; or Bull\u2019s Head, Craswall (01981-510616; thebullsheadcraswall.co.uk) \u2013 characterful old pub; open Fri+Sat, 12-3, 7-late; Sun 12-3. Parties of 10+ at other times by arrangement.<\/p>\n<p>ACCOMMODATION: Pandy Inn, Dorstone HR3 6AN (01981-550273; <a href=\"http:\/\/pandyinn.co.uk\">pandyinn.co.uk<\/a>) \u2013 lovely friendly pub, fabulous wooden chalet for B&#038;B.<\/p>\n<p>HAY-ON-WYE FESTIVAL: 31 May-10 June (<a href=\"http:\/\/hayfestival.com\">hayfestival.com<\/a>)<\/p>\n<p>INFORMATION:  Hay-on-Wye TIC (01497-820144; <a href=\"http:\/\/visitherefordshire.co.uk\">visitherefordshire.co.uk<\/a>)<\/p>\n<p>Readers\u2019 Walks: Come and enjoy a country walk with our experts!  Dates, info etc.: <a href=\"http:\/\/www.mytimesplus.co.uk\/travel\/uk\/1867\/times-walks\">http:\/\/www.mytimesplus.co.uk\/travel\/uk\/1867\/times-walks<\/a>. Next walks &#8211; Lake District, 8 April; Holy Island, Northumberland, 13 May<br \/>\n<A HREF=\"http:\/\/www.ramblers.org.uk\/\">www.ramblers.org.uk<\/A> <A HREF=\"http:\/\/www.satmap.com\/\">www.satmap.com<\/A> <A HREF=\"http:\/\/www.LogMyTrip.co.uk\/\">www.LogMyTrip.co.uk<\/A><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Two tiny terriers came barking to the fence of the Bull\u2019s Head Inn at Craswall as we pulled on our boots in the lane<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-492","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-walks","category-3-id","post-seq-1","post-parity-odd","meta-position-corners","fix"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/492","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=492"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/492\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=492"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=492"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=492"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}