{"id":503,"date":"2012-05-19T01:27:05","date_gmt":"2012-05-19T01:27:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/?p=503"},"modified":"2012-05-16T12:58:26","modified_gmt":"2012-05-16T12:58:26","slug":"falls-of-bruar-glen-banvie-and-old-blair-perthshire-scotland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/?p=503","title":{"rendered":"Falls of Bruar, Glen Banvie and Old Blair, Perthshire, Scotland"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>Young men and women in white helmets and blue jumpsuits were throwing themselves over the Falls of Bruar like salmon in reverse.<br \/>\n<script type=\"text\/javascript\">window.onload = setupZoom; function popwalk(walk) {var url = \"\/Walks\/amap.php?f=\"+walk; var walkwindow=window.open(url,\"walkwin\",\"height=600,width=1020,resizable=yes,scrollbars=yes\"); if (window.focus) {walkwindow.focus()}}<\/script>First published in: The Times <a href=\"javascript:popwalk('FallsofBruar.gpx');\" rel=\"nozoom\" title=\"Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window\">Click here to view a map for this walk in a new window<\/a><\/script><br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7096\/7118249333_1f9c3c1db3.jpg\" title='Looking over the Falls of Bruar'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7096\/7118249333_1f9c3c1db3_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a><a href=\"http:\/\/farm9.static.flickr.com\/8158\/6972196406_be2ece3e7d.jpg\" title='Glen Banvie'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm9.static.flickr.com\/8158\/6972196406_be2ece3e7d_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7109\/7118275695_02ebb7a735.jpg\" title='Kirk of St Bride 1'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7109\/7118275695_02ebb7a735_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7080\/7118276479_936241670c.jpg\" title='Kirk of St Bride 2'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7080\/7118276479_936241670c_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7065\/7118276867_fc4fe87a05.jpg\" title='Kirk of St Bride - memorial stone to Bonnie Dundee'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7065\/7118276867_fc4fe87a05_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm9.static.flickr.com\/8008\/7118277251_5f4c2253aa.jpg\" title='in Blair Castle park'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm9.static.flickr.com\/8008\/7118277251_5f4c2253aa_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm9.static.flickr.com\/8167\/6972199580_91cb41b2f9.jpg\" title='gorge jumpers at the Falls of Bruar (he&#039;s in the tree!)'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm9.static.flickr.com\/8167\/6972199580_91cb41b2f9_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a> <a href=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7120\/6972200026_f86b9e05f1.jpg\" title='canyoners in the Falls of Bruar'><img decoding=\"async\" src=\"http:\/\/farm8.static.flickr.com\/7120\/6972200026_f86b9e05f1_s.jpg\" alt=\"picture\" \/><\/a><br \/>\nFacebook Link: <script src=\"http:\/\/connect.facebook.net\/en_US\/all.js#xfbml=1\"><\/script><fb:like href=\"http:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/wordpress\/?p=503\" layout=\"button_count\" show_faces=\"true\" width=\"200\" colorscheme=\"dark\"><\/fb:like><\/p>\n<p>I stood on the brink of the flood-sculpted gorge and watched them leap from a ledge under the none-too-tender persuasion of their gung-ho instructor, plummeting down to smack into a pool 30 feet below.<\/p>\n<p>What would the 4th Duke of Atholl, one of the grandest of 18th-century Highland Lairds, have made of such forward behaviour on his estate? He suffered a bit of teasing from Robert Burns after the poet visited the Bruar Water in 1787. Burns was dismayed at the bareness of the moorland that enclosed the famous falls, and composed The Humble Petition of Bruar Water to give His Grace a respectful push in the silvicultural direction:<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Would then my noble master please<br \/>\nTo grant my highest wishes,<br \/>\nHe\u2019ll shade my banks wi\u2019 tow\u2019ring trees,<br \/>\nAnd bonie spreading bushes.<br \/>\nDelighted doubly then, my lord,<br \/>\nYou\u2019ll wander on my banks,<br \/>\nAnd listen mony a grateful bird<br \/>\nReturn you tuneful thanks.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>These days, forests of larch, silver birch and Scots pine shade the Falls of Bruar, and a good stretch of mountainside beyond. I crossed the upper of two ornate bridges over the roaring falls, and found a woodland path that climbed steadily up towards the open moor. Roe deer fled away between the pines, and a red squirrel lingered at the end of his branch to watch me out of his territory.<\/p>\n<p>The track left the trees, running for miles on the fringe of the wide moorlands around Glen Banvie. Ahead the rugged blue profiles of Carn Liath and Beinn a\u2019 Ghlo stood tall and seductive on the eastern skyline. Then it was back into the forest, down to Old Blair and the ancient ruined kirk of St Bride. John Graham of Claverhouse, \u2018Bonnie Dundee\u2019, was buried here in July 1689 after dying of the wounds he received while leading his Highlanders to victory over Government troops at the Battle of Killiecrankie a few miles away.<\/p>\n<p>A stretch across the beautiful parkland of Blair Castle, a final mile through the forest, and I was crossing the Falls of Bruar once more \u2013 the only river in creation to address its owner in prideful verse:<\/p>\n<p>\u2018Here, foaming down the skelvy rocks,<br \/>\nIn twisting strength I rin;<br \/>\nThere, high my boiling torrent smokes,<br \/>\nWild-roaring o\u2019er a linn:<br \/>\nEnjoying each large spring and well<br \/>\nAs Nature gave them me,<br \/>\nI am, altho\u2019 I say\u2019t mysel\u2019,<br \/>\nWorth gaun a mile to see.\u2019<\/p>\n<p>Start &#038; finish: Falls of Bruar car park, Bruar, near Blair Atholl, Perthshire PH18 5TW (OS ref NN 820660)<\/p>\n<p>Getting there:<br \/>\nAt junction of A9 and B8079, at Bruar, 3 miles west of Blair Atholl<\/p>\n<p>Walk: (11\u00bd miles, moderate, OS Explorers 386, 394): Follow Falls of Bruar Walk (signed behind House of Bruar) to cross Upper Bridge (820669). Path returns down opposite bank. In 350 yards, at seat in clearing, 2 paths fork left (820666). Follow left-hand path to T-junction (826666); left up forest road. In \u2153 mile, fork left on grassy track (824670; post with red arrow). Follow it for 3\u00be miles north through Glen Banvie Wood, then south-east down Glen Banvie to enter Whim Plantation (853677); descend to tarmac road (868667). Right past Old Blair; walled road to T-junction on avenue (864665). Left; follow road for 1\u00bc miles to enter woodland. In 200 yards, at 5-way junction, hairpin back right (843660). In \u00bc mile follow track round left bend (846663). Continue for 1\u00bc miles through forest to pass through gateposts (827666); in 100 yards, left (\u2018Falls of Bruar\u2019); cross Lower Bridge (819664); return to car park.<br \/>\nNB Steep unguarded drops beside falls!<br \/>\nClick on Facebook &#8220;Like&#8221; link to share this walk with Facebook friends.<\/p>\n<p>Lunch: Picnic.<\/p>\n<p>Accommodation: Moulin Hotel, Moulin, Pitlochry (01796-472196; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.moulinhotel.co.uk\">www.moulinhotel.co.uk<\/a>)<\/p>\n<p>More info:<br \/>\n<a href=\"http:\/\/www.athollestates.co.uk\">www.athollestates.co.uk<\/a>; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.visitscotland.com\/surprise\">www.visitscotland.com\/surprise<\/a><\/p>\n<p>Ballater Walking Festival, 19-25 May \u2013 01339-755467; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.royal-deeside.org.uk\/RDnews\/walkweek\">www.royal-deeside.org.uk\/RDnews\/walkweek<\/a><br \/>\nBreast Cancer Care\u2019s Pink Ribbon Walks: 0870-145-0101; <a href=\"http:\/\/www.pinkribbonwalk.org.uk\">www.pinkribbonwalk.org.uk<\/a>. Next walks: Petworth House, West Sussex, 26 May; Cholmondeley Castle, Cheshire, 9 June<br \/>\nSubscriber Walks: Enjoy a\u00a0country walk with our experts. Next walk: Tibbie Shiels Inn, Selkirkshire, Scotland, 10 June. Email\u00a0timespluspartners@newsint.co.uk\u00a0to book. Tickets \u00a310.<br \/>\n<A HREF=\"http:\/\/www.ramblers.org.uk\/\">www.ramblers.org.uk<\/A> <A HREF=\"http:\/\/www.satmap.com\/\">www.satmap.com<\/A> <A HREF=\"http:\/\/www.LogMyTrip.co.uk\/\">www.LogMyTrip.co.uk<\/A><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Young men and women in white helmets and blue jumpsuits were throwing themselves over the Falls of Bruar like salmon in reverse. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-503","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-walks","category-3-id","post-seq-1","post-parity-odd","meta-position-corners","fix"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/503","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=503"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/503\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=503"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=503"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.christophersomerville.co.uk\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=503"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}